Erica Peachey
Pets and children together, the happy ideal which we have in our minds. Whether it is on old fashioned chocolate boxes, Lassie films or advertisements for toilet rolls, the idea of adorable children and cute animals can be a far cry from reality.
For both pets and children being involved with each other has tremendous advantages. It is undoubtedly hard work for the adults involved, but it is worth the effort. For example, studies have shown that children raised in households with pets tend to relate more closely to others, have greater empathy, increased social skills and may have a better understanding of life’s difficulties. For pets, especially dogs and cats, the rewards can include a richer, more varied lifestyle, increased companionship and time spent with them. Sometimes, I wonder why I have found no studies outlining the benefits to parents. On difficult days with my family, I can imagine why this is, but most of the time, the rewards are obvious.
Dogs pose the biggest potential for problems with children but also, perhaps, the greatest opportunity for good times.
Recent research has shown that:
• The majority of dog bites occur in the home.
• The majority involve children under 5 years of age.
• The dog involved is usually familiar to the child.
• Younger children are more likely to be bitten in the face or neck.
This chapter is divided into four sections. The first looks at dogs and children in the same household, growing up together with all the difficulties this entails. The second section looks at some of the special considerations which may be needed. Thirdly, we look at advice for dog owners and finally, advice for parents. The information is aimed at the majority of dogs and children, although there are exceptions to every rule.
Know your own dog and/or child and follow, adapt or disregard advice accordingly. If you have any concerns regarding the behaviour of a pet, speak to your veterinary surgeon and ask for a referral to a reputable behaviour counsellor, such as a member of the APBC or ABTC.
The general theory is as follows:
1. The aim is to provide good experiences between the child and the pet.
What constitutes a ‘good experience’ will vary between different children and pets. For dogs, this will tend to include walks, games, food treats and attention. It is preferable that the dog has learnt good manners and the boundaries of acceptable behaviour before being with children. For example, if a dog snatches treats, barks constantly for toys, jumps up when going for a walk etc, pet ownership is less likely to be a good experience for the child involved.
2. As well as good experiences, it is essential to reduce or prevent bad experiences
This may involve:
• Limiting the time the animal is with the child. This is especially important if the child is active or excited.
• Not allowing the child to chase a dog that does not want to play. What is the child learning? What is the dog learning? How can they learn to like each other’s company from that experience?
• Not allowing children to tease/hurt/pester the pet. This may sound obvious, but it is amazing how often it is overlooked.
• Not letting the pet frighten the child. Barking, jumping up and licking may all be perceived as friendly, but can be very intimidating for a young child. Therefore, take special care around greeting and games, and especially with puppies who have not learnt to stop mouthing.
3. Other points
A child’s presence should signal good things. Find ways of including the child in the pet’s favourite things. For example:
• walks with the baby and Rover,
• games with the child involved or sitting on a knee,
• cuddles with everyone involved etc.
It is tempting to wait until the child has gone to bed and then have quality time with Rover, but what does the pet learn? That life is great as soon as the child is out of the way? Added to which, the child cannot learn about interacting with the pet. Some things are better done when the children are not around but ensure that good things happen when together. When the child goes out or to bed have a period of time of no interaction with the pet, so it does not learn that no child equals fun and attention.
Routine. Routine is often helpful for pet, child and adult but flexibility is also important.
4. The three Ss.
Safety. Safety must always come first. Every parent and every owner must be responsible for their own child/pet. If a situation leads anyone to feel uncomfortable, stop, separate and review it.
Supervise. Supervision varies. For example: the advice is that children should be supervised when in the bath. However, this level of supervision varies, from a new-born which has to be held and the parent cannot take their eyes off them, to being in the same room, to being in vocal contact, until the child is old enough to be left when in the bath. Therefore, merely being in the same room may not be an adequate level of supervision, especially in the early stages of resolving a problem.
Common Sense. It has been said that the problem with common sense is that it is not all that common. Lots of information is available, especially as many people now have access to the internet. However, not all information is correct or applicable in each situation, so use your own best judgement at all times and seek qualified professional help where necessary.
In some ways, this is an easier situation, as there is normally a few months in which to make any changes. Thought and consideration is needed to ensure that all remains harmonious. A dog that walks nicely on the lead, does not jump up or demand attention and that comes when called is greatly appreciated when you have a young baby to consider. Before the arrival of the baby any behaviour problems and training difficulties should be resolved. A behaviour modification course supervised by a behaviour counsellor and/or a dog training course are better under taken now while there is more time and less complications. A thorough check up and chat with your veterinary surgeon can put your mind at rest concerning any health worries (see below).
Decide what changes will need to be made, make them and stick to them. For example, if Rover will not be allowed on the furniture when the baby is born, make these changes as early as possible so that the pet is used to them before the baby arrives. Not only does this mean that changes are made gradually but the pet is less likely to view the baby as a limiting presence. It is also important to accustom the dog to the sights, smells and routines that will occur when the baby arrives. This can be achieved through obtaining a recording of a baby crying, introducing scent impregnated cloths and practising the routines associated with baby care, perhaps with a large doll. Your midwife may be able to help you obtain sound recording and cloths from other parents.
Children can be heavy handed and have to learn how to avoid hurting others. However gentle the child and however carefully you supervise, the child will behave inconsistently, touch in different ways and generally prove to be something of a challenge for your pet to cope with. Try to anticipate each stage of your child’s development, and prepare your dog for it. Grabbing fur, hugging, tripping over, shouting, screaming, banging doors, pointing to ears, eyes, staring, jumping off furniture etc all form part of most children’s repertoire at some stage and so help your pet, get used to these. For example we want Rover to feel that it is perfectly normal for people to throw themselves on the floor, so that when the child does it, it is not an automatic signal to play. At a time when your child is not around (so they cannot copy) do a minor version of some of the things your child may do. Reward Rover for no reaction. Then do it slightly more, and reward Rover again and so on.
Children copy adults, so ensure that the way you behave with your pets is something you want your child to emulate. For example, if you frequently shout at Rover and tell him he is a ‘bad dog’, do not be surprised if your child reacts to him the same way. Even if it is a pleasant action such as patting, their version of it may not be enjoyed quite the same way. Try to stay one step ahead by thinking of the things your dog will have to cope with and prepare it for them.
Consider any additional points that your pet may need to learn. Acceptance of being occasionally shut out of a room is essential in my opinion. Teaching a dog not to touch toys left on the floor and to ignore the sound of squeaky and rattly toys by using positive reinforcement is also a good plan.
Develop a routine. It is tempting to spend all your time with the dog, especially during maternity leave, but this may not be the best for the dog because it may develop the wrong expectations that will be at odds with reality after the baby arrives. Exercise and games should continue, with as little disruption as possible. On a practical note it may be beneficial to speak to a professional groomer, even if your dog does not normally visit one. Having a dog bathed and excess hair trimmed can be a bonus. Poop scooping can become more difficult for pregnant ladies, but is still essential part of walking a dog.
Decide on what provision will be made for your dog when you go into hospital. Most new mothers and babies stay in hospital for a few days after the birth and it is a good idea for someone to bring some items of clothing home for the dog to smell before washing. The clothes just have to be left on chairs etc for the scents to become familiar.
On returning home, it is usually a good idea for the mum to leave her baby outside (with someone to supervise) whilst she enters the home and says ‘hello’ to the dog. Then the baby can be carried in (car seats are wonderful for this) and the dog can say his ‘hello’ in whatever way is appropriate. If you are concerned about the reaction of a boisterous dog, attach a trailing lead to the dog’s non-slip eg buckled collar and this way you can interrupt any over-friendly behaviour as well as rewarding calmness.
New babies are relatively easy for most dogs to accept, if there are going to be major difficulties they are more likely to occur when the baby becomes mobile. Suddenly, this strange creature is moving and unpredictable. At this stage, protect the dog to whatever extent is necessary and begin to teach the child. Although they are extremely young and cannot retain all information, they are learning huge amounts and need to develop good habits. Good experiences together are essential and this normally involves walks, games, titbits etc and maybe cuddle times for parent, child and dog. Ensure that the dog has time away from the child and can always get to a safe area where it will not be followed by the child; baby gates, play pens and indoor kennels can all be useful here, if used correctly. Meal times can be difficult. I find that a good general rule is that dogs and children are fed separately and do not mix at these times.
Any difficulties can be greatly reduced by careful thought and consideration regarding the choice of puppy including breed characteristics. Ensure the puppy (or older dog) is acquired from a reputable breeder or home. I would recommend a puppy with an experience of home life preferably with children in his early weeks as a pet for a family.
If acquiring an older dog, ask why the dog needs a new home. Even if the situation is not due to behaviour problems, for example, a breeder selling on older puppies, I would hesitate to take on an older dog that has not been successfully integrated with children. This does not necessarily mean living with them but the dog should have been with children frequently and enjoyed the experience.
All the points discussed in respect of introducing a baby apply, such as good experiences together, separating at times and teaching all members of the family, pet included, how to behave with each other. Good puppy or dog classes will be happy for the whole family to attend to develop this learning, depending on the ages, number and behaviour of children.
• Some older dogs cope with the family changes when a baby arrives extremely well, enjoying the extra interest that life with a baby brings. Older dogs are generally well behaved and usually need less exercise, socialising and training than when younger. However, extra care may be needed as the older dog may be fixed in a routine and its expectations may take time to change. Also an older dog may find it difficult to get out of the way of boisterous toddlers and may find rougher handling painful and therefore needs to be more protection from the child’s attentions.
• It is likely that a younger dog is more demanding of your time as it needs greater exercise and stimulation. The advantage is that it can adapt easily but you must still give him the time he needed for stimulation, exercise, training and social learning.
• Children with special needs can benefit from being around pets but obviously especial care must be taken that the pet is suitable. There are no hard and fast rules as every situation varies but always see the situation rationally and from everyone’s viewpoint, including the dog’s! Take advice where necessary and do not rush into making decisions.
• It is necessary to properly approach a situation where children regularly visit a dog, such as is frequently the case with grandparents or other relatives who own a dog. In some ways, this is easier as the dog doesn’t have to live with the child. However, it can be more difficult because the dog doesn’t have the same opportunities to learn as a dog a child lives with. The frequency and duration of visits is an important factor. At one extreme is the close family, where the child and adults call in regularly, possibly unannounced, for varying lengths of time. In many ways, this is good as the dog is used to the child at every stage of development and they are familiar with it. However, if the dog is not happy with the situation, it can be problematical although the same considerations apply, i.e. supervision, limiting the time together and ensuring both have good experiences.
At the other extreme is the family who visit and stay infrequently. They typically live further away and therefore, their visit usually involves one or more overnight stays and a disruption of routine. In some ways, this is more difficult, as the dog may only see the child every 6 or 12 months and so cannot be easily accustomed to the changes. The child too has not seen the dog and therefore, has less idea of how to behave with it during these visits. If dog and child really cannot mix, segregation or a good boarding kennels is an option.
• It is essential that the pet should not become a scapegoat for family tensions. Families are rarely harmonious all the time, but if there are unresolved issues, the pet should not be involved.
• Studies have shown that 86% of bites are triggers by the child-initiated interaction. Also the studies tell us that most bites occur when there is no active parental supervision.
• Although children are not good at understanding dog body language and signalling, the studies show that when children are taught what to look for and how to understand this, the incidence of dog to children aggression can be reduced.
In these days of court cases and litigation, children can strike fear into the heart of a dog owner. What can be done to reduce the likelihood of any problems?
Socialising the dog is vital, and this should continue throughout a dog’s life. Although patterns of social behaviour become established over the first few months of life, dogs are always learning and like a person driving a car, it is better to practise these skills on a regular basis. The concept of behavioural organisation (as discussed in Chapter 2) in part, involves learning the right behaviour through pleasant experiences. Therefore, socialising with children should not be a matter of leaving a puppy with some children and hoping they all learn to get on or mixing with a couple of children and hoping this is sufficient. It is an active process involving seeking children of different ages and types and ensuring that your dog has a good time with them.
Socialising with children can be difficult, especially if the dog does not live in a household where there are children. Good puppy and dog classes provide the presence of some children but more will be needed. Walks in different places, mixing with friend’s families and walking in busy areas in a controlled way can all help to increase the amount of contact with children. Be ready to make the most of any situation. For example if a child or a parent shows any interest in your dog, ask if they would like to make friends.
Anticipate and avoid difficult situations. If you feel unsure of the child’s or your dog’s behaviour, walk away from situations, removing your dog from potential trouble. This may be because a child is becoming too boisterous, a small number of children has becomes a large group or because you simply notice signals from your dog that it is no longer enjoying the contact with the child or children and is beginning to find it difficult.
Some children may be scared of dogs in general or of your dog in particular. Children who are scared can behave in a way which may dogs find unnerving, e.g. if the child tends to stare, squeal, move quickly, comes close and then moves back. Know your own dog and do not allow a situation to develop it cannot cope with.
Some children are too rough. These tend to be those who are unused to dogs and therefore have no idea of how to behave around them, or children who live with a very docile and tolerant dog and have learnt that the way to interact with dogs is to pull their ears, hang from their necks etc. Again, remain in control of the situation and be ready to interrupt them and give some guidance or move your dog away if needed.
The attitude of parents is also worth mentioning. It came as a great shock to me when I realised how many adults are afraid of dogs to a greater or lesser extent and this can have a negative effect on their children. Make sure that you don’t force your dog on anyone and just as you and your dog may need to ‘escape’ when you choose, the parent and child must have the same opportunity. A common misconception is that only aggressive dogs cause problems. This is not the case – many problems arise with friendly dogs, especially when they are off lead. A dog that loves children can be an extremely frightening creature to a child who is not confident around strange dogs. Being knocked over by a dog is very frightening and many playful dogs become extremely excited if this happens. Take extra care if you feel this may apply to your dog. You may know that your dog is friendly, but behaviours that a dog owner may view as normal can be enough to arouse feelings of fear in parents and/or children. This will include barking, running to greet people, jumping up, being playful, running quickly, licking (especially faces), puppy mouthing etc. If your dog has a tendency towards any of these, you are likely to encounter hostility in public places but appropriate training and control can prevent these problems.
Always remember that your perception of your dog may not be the same as other people. Many children are frightened of large dogs, but assume all small dogs are puppies and therefore want to be cuddled. Certain types arouse feelings in adults. As a generalisation, large dogs, black dogs, German Shepherds, Rottweilers and Staffordshire types appear to be viewed with greater suspicion and less tolerance than many other breeds. For example, owners of black Labradors tell me they meet more anti dog feeling than is reported by owners of yellow Labradors. Due to reduced tolerance the presence of dogs around schools and children’s play areas is increasingly frowned upon. This is such as shame because responsible dog owners and well-behaved, friendly dogs can be a source of great interest, education and fun for children, some of whom may not otherwise have much contact with them. When out and about with your dog in areas populated by children always take extra care and ensure that your dog, whilst learning his own social skills, helps others to view dogs in a positive way. One final word on being an ambassador for dogs: never forget your poop scoop. Carry it with you and use it when necessary.
In summary, be a responsible dog owner. Each time you are out you are contributing to people’s view of dogs. Make sure that no-one has cause to fear or worry about your dog or its actions and if possible, let children meet him and learn a little more about the enjoyment of dogs. Socialise your dog with children and be one step ahead in each situation, anticipating any possibility of problems and ensuring it does not happen.
No-one wants their child to be hurt, and being bitten by a dog is a source of fear for many parents. Usually this fear is based on lack of knowledge, or perhaps some experience in their childhood.
Teaching children to be safe around unfamiliar dogs is as important as teaching them how to behave around cars. What we teach and what we expect depends on the age of the child and therefore learning must be developed as the child grows. Even within the same age group, children need to learn different things. A child who is scared of dogs needs to learn confidence as well as basic manners around dogs. A child who is confident with dogs needs to learn to respect dogs they are not familiar with and to read their body language, as well as ways of mixing with dogs which are safe and enjoyable. Being scared and being over confident are opposite ends of the scale, but children at either extreme are at an increased risk of being bitten because of the way they behave.
The rules I teach include:
• Not all dogs are like yours at home. However they behave with their own dog at home (or a relative’s dog etc), children must learn how to relate to unfamiliar dogs.
• Do not stroke a dog unless you know the dog’s name. This is a useful guide for young children.
As the children get older, I recommend:
• Firstly ask the owner if you can stroke their dog, or give him a titbit etc.
• If the owner says it is fine, you should then ‘ask the dog’ by standing a little way from him, speaking to him and holding out your hand.
• If the dog approaches in a friendly way, you are fine to gently say hello, preferably by stroking on the chest or shoulders.
• Never put your face close to dogs.
• Do not make excited gestures or noises.
• Never attempt to make friends with a dog that does not have an owner with it. This includes dogs tied up outside shops as well as dogs running loose. A dog may look just like a friend’s dog, you may think you know it, but still ignore it until an owner is with him.
If a child is unsure of a dog they should be taught to stand still, not scream or wave arms around, just to ‘stand like a soldier’. It is best not to stare at the dog, but this is hard to do, so I often teach children that after standing still it is a good idea to slowly look around to find an adult. They should call to them and when they walk away, they should move slowly. If the child is holding a toy or food, I recommend that they drop it and back slowly away.
Health issues are always mentioned when discussing children and pets. It is beyond scope of this chapter to cover it. If you have any concerns about sick animals, consult your veterinary surgeon. I would advise a visit to the veterinary surgery as a chat with a veterinary surgeon will put any health worries into perspective. Appropriate treatments, vaccinations, fleas and worming at regular intervals, plus regular check ups and will keep most problems at bay. Teach children basic hygiene rules, such as washing hands after touching pets and before eating any food and not to put faces near to pets. Take care with faeces, poop scoop and dispose of it effectively.
The subject of pets and children is huge and one which could be written about in far greater depth. The aim should be to avoid problems where possible by careful thought, socialising and avoiding difficult situations. Where a problem exists or where there is a potential problem, a veterinary surgeon will be able to help by providing a referral to a recognised behaviour counsellor, such as a member of the APBC or ABTC. Growing up with a pet for companionship should be a wonderful experience, with many benefits. Through careful thought and consideration, good points will be maximised and any possible negative points minimised.
Whilst caution and common sense must always be exercised, most problems can be resolved or at least improved. Unfortunately, all too often, the general advice if a dog shows any aggression towards children is to part with the dog. This is usually based on concern for the child and a lack of knowledge from the person giving the advice. Although great care must be taken, many problems involving aggression towards children can be overcome by following the right recommendations, and therefore avoid making hasty decisions which cannot be reversed.
The first thing to understand about getting any pet for a child is that all situations involving young children and pets are potentially dangerous. Interactions between pets and young children should always be supervised and every effort should be made to avoid any risk to both parties. Although the incidence of dog bites in the population has been well documented, injuries inflicted on children by the domestic cat are not often reported. Nevertheless, being attacked by a cat can be both physically painful and profoundly disturbing emotionally to most children.
Some children are excellent with cats but kittens are fragile and easily injured. Kittens need to be handled properly in the early weeks of their life or they can develop some difficult behavioural problems. Cats and kittens are widely available and inexpensive and it is very easy to get either on an impulse; they may appear to be the easy choice for the family as they are perceived to be more independent and less of a commitment for the child or the family. This is partially true but can be part of the problem. Cats and children both want life on their terms and this can set up a conflict between them.
It is important to understand that cats can be very subtle in their signalling. Initial warnings can include mild skin rippling, flattening of the ears and turning away and ignoring overtures from people. Children do not always understand a cat’s warning signals and this can lead to defensive aggression. A mildly irritated or anxious cat may lay with its paws on the floor (rather than tucked). It may flick its tail as a sign of irritation. This particular behaviour should not be mistaken as friendly tail wagging! Children should be taught the cat is saying it wishes to be left alone.
The signals can become more overt such as hissing, hair erection, and arching of the back, and if these subtle signals are ignored, the response can be swift. Most cats will attempt to move away at this point but some will resort to defensive aggression, particularly if confined or restrained. If the initial, subtle signalling is repeatedly ignored in interactions, the cat may rapidly resort to the more overt signalling. A child often becomes a victim of this behaviour because of a lack of knowledge of what the cat is communicating and how to respond.
Cats can remain reactive long after the triggering event. If a cat has had an unnerving meeting with another cat, dog or human, or even been frightened by noises, it may still be upset and aggressively responsive for some time. If a child attempts to handle the cat while it is still reactive, the cat may respond with what appears to be unprovoked aggression. It is best for the child to always initiate contact or play using a toy rather than touching it by hand. If the cat is overly reactive, it gives it the chance to attack the toy, or run away, rather than frightening the child.
Some cats may respond to unwanted handling and interaction by running away and hiding. This may solve the problem of aggression, but is unlikely to satisfy the point of getting the animal as a pet in the first place. Animals should be brought into the home to teach children to respect and understand them. Having a cat that runs away and hides, avoiding all interaction, hardly satisfies these criteria.
It is fundamental to consider whether a cat is an appropriate companion for your particular child. Choices are frequently made according to the parent’s own desires and far too often the child is then made responsible for the animal. Consideration should be given to the temperament and capabilities of the child and the demands they may make on the animal. If the animal chosen doesn’t fit the demands and temperament of the child, the child may lose interest or, even worst, may grow impatient with the cat. The family should not have unrealistic expectations of the tolerance levels of a cat. All cats are individuals and have different tolerance levels and most cats can be defensively aggressive if they feel that no other choice is available.
When choosing a kitten for a child, look for a kitten that is responsive, energetic and curious. Shy kittens usually grow up to be shy cats and are not suitable for children. Older cats may be a better choice for children under seven or eight years of age. Check to see if the older cat has a calm response to noise, activity, and friendly overtures from children. Give the older cat time to settle into the home and allow him to make his own friendly overtures rather than having affection forced upon him. Give the cat control by teaching the children to leave the cat alone unless he comes to them. Point out friendly behaviour from a cat e.g. head rubbing or tail in air, that means it is ready to be petted. Teach by example how cats like to be stroked (gently in the direction the hair lies) and how they like to have their cheeks rubbed.
You should make sure the cat has gentle playtimes and also be aware of inadvertently teaching a kitten inappropriate behaviour. Bring up your kitten as you mean for it to go on. It is very cute for a small kitten to attack your ankles but not so cute in a grown cat. Hands and feet should never be used as playthings and rough play should be discouraged between children and cats. Have a variety of toys available for the child and the kitten or cat to interact with.
Be aware! Cats require a lot of rest, in fact, most domestic cats sleep between fourteen and eighteen hours a day! Kittens have short, intensive play/eating periods with long periods of sleep. Some kittens have suffered malnutrition and even death because they were too tired to eat properly after they were handled and played with for too long. Kittens and cats need frequent rest periods all day long with food and water readily available when they are awake.
In some cases it may help to facilitate your cat’s introduction to children by linking highly rewarding food with their presence as well as playing with toys. Dogs are rather omnivorous and soon link children with the bits of food they regularly drop. If you want your cat to link food rewards with children make sure it is food of high value to the cat, such as bits of special chicken-meat the cat only associates being with the children.
Give the cat some control over its environment by providing boltholes that are not accessible to the child. These can be high places with box beds and blankets and food and water out of reach of the children. The addition of hidden places under a bed or in a closet can be beneficial. These resting places should be off limits to the children. This is to allow the cat the space and privacy it needs and teaches the children to set limits to their behaviour in order to respect the rights of others.
As with dogs introducing a cat to an infant can begin long before the baby arrives. Try to get a tape of an infant baby crying and, perhaps, a dirty nappy! Begin to de-sensitise your cat to these novel items. You can even get a doll that moves and cries and give your cat a lot of positive attention, play and food rewards for being curious but calm around the ‘baby’.
Make sure litter trays are private places for the cat. Many cats that ultimately have problems of eliminating out of the litter tray have been disturbed while they were toileting in the tray. One unsupervised child was known to pick up and scold the family kitten when he caught it toileting in the litter tray. Needless to say, the cat began toileting behind the sofa and in the closet – anywhere hidden rather than in the tray!
A cat or kitten added to the family should definitely be seen as a family project rather than another playmate for a child. Cats should never be brought into the home to be living toys for the pleasure of the children and a cat may not be the right choice for children who have difficulty controlling their impulses.
Young children should be taught to think of having a cat as a privilege to look forward to when they are ‘old enough’, rather than as a right of childhood. Having a cat in the family should be about learning about a cat’s needs and behaviour, how it communicates, how the child can fit into the cat’s world and how to communicate appropriately with it. It should be about respect for the cat and learning responsibility for the care and welfare of another living animal.
It is very common for children to be given a pet rabbit, guinea pig, hamster or gerbil in exchange for the dog or cat they really crave. The feeling amongst most parents is that these animals represent an easier alternative, a pet that will involve less care and expense. In addition they are readily available at most pet shops and can therefore be purchased on impulse with very little forward planning.
Unfortunately for many children the relationship falls at the first hurdle with the pet becoming aggressive or simply ‘not doing anything’. With a gerbil or hamster living for at least two years and a pet rabbit living for anything from five to ten years the purchase of these animals, especially for a child who may lose interest, should be as a result of an informed decision. Most of all, as already mentoned, it is important that pets are not purchased as a live ‘toy’ for a child’s entertainment. Unless they are committed to providing for its needs and maintaining its welfare, albeit with parental help and guidance, it is better that they do not have a pet at all.
The husbandry requirements for each species of smaller pet are unique and care must be taken to ensure that they are being provided with the correct diet and the appropriate environment. For example, guinea pigs are unable to produce their own Vitamin C and therefore require special diets. A gerbil will become very destructive in a shallow cage with no room to burrow, it will become much more active in an aquarium with thick bedding to burrow in. A rabbit requires lots of daily exercise and social contact and may benefit from living indoors where it will be able to run around.
Rabbits, guinea pigs, rats, mice, gerbils and some species of hamster are very sociable and in the right situations a good relationship can develop between the child and the animal but these are all prey animals and therefore have a very different perspective of the owner-pet relationship when compared with the cat or the dog. The interaction between a human and a prey animal involves an enormous amount of trust that can very easily descend into distrust and fear.
The greatest issue affecting a prey animal’s relationship with a child is handling. For each species of rabbit, guinea pig or rodent there are a variety of breeds, differing in size and husbandry needs. Some of the larger rabbits are too heavy for a child to pick up; some of the smaller breeds of hamster are too small for hands that may squeeze too tightly. Whichever breed is chosen, it is important to get the animal when it is young, from a breeder that has ensured it has been handled daily since it was weaned. The breeder, veterinary surgeon or another experienced individual should advise on the correct method of handling for the species. An easy mistake made by many pet owners is to pick a rabbit up with hands either side of the ribcage and the rear end dangling. This method is likely to make the rabbit, a prey species now swooped upon from above, feel unsafe which may lead to some kicking and struggling. This is not only dangerous for an animal with a very fragile spine but can also lead them to avoid handling in the future. Similarly smaller pets have to be handled in a manner that is appropriate for their physical characteristics and their ethology. Once parents have researched what these are for the species concerned, they must ensure that their children fully understand and behave accordingly.
An animal that has not been handled regularly, or has experienced inept handling, is likely to display fearful behaviour each time the owner tries to pick it up, or even tries to feed it. This fear behaviour may be exhibited as cowering and hiding but it may also become aggressive behaviour. For a child, this is hugely disappointing and frightening and will generally lead them to avoid all contact with the animal in the future. For the rabbit this means life at the end of the garden in a hutch, being ignored.