Julie M Bedford
Two common misconceptions about animals available for rehoming at the many charity animal centres is that they have been rescued from a life of neglect and abuse or have behaviour problems that make them too dangerous or disruptive for the average person to manage. Of course for some this is sadly true, but most animals admitted to charities for rehoming are well cared for and much-loved pets, which, when obtained, were intended to be with the family for life. In fact a common reason for animals being handed over to rescue organisations, is changes in the owners’ circumstances. This includes changes in work pattern, financial difficulties, divorce, house moves and illness/hospitalisation.
Many other animals may find themselves in a rehoming centre after being picked up as strays so little is known about their background. If animals are relinquished due to behaviour problems most will have their behaviour problems resolved or managed. The majority are overcome by providing a more suitable activity, a change of environment or by placing the animal with an owner who does not see the behaviour as a problem due to their experience or expectations. So the majority of pets available at rehoming centres will be problem free and, with correct placing and introduction to the new home, will settle successfully. Fortunately many rehoming charities also take great steps to ensure that staff are well trained and able to help the animal, and new owner, to build a strong, mutually beneficial relationship.
What follows provides an insight into what is involved in the assessment and rehabilitation process, which is a guide for those working or aspiring to work within a rescue organisation. For the pet owner or potential pet owner it is an insight into the care taken where best practice is employed. Best practice ensures sensible handling and a sensitive, well-informed approach to the animal’s, housing, care and welfare which aids the management and rehabilitation process.
The rehabilitation process, for those that need it, has to begin when the current owner first approaches the animal charity to hand over the pet. Prior to, and at the hand over as much information as possible should be gathered. Comprehensive information helps to define the problem and the appropriate way to resolve it. It also helps to ensure the behaviour of the dogs and cats that are relinquished does not deteriorate whilst in the rehoming centre.
When the animal is brought to the centre for rehoming it is important that a detailed account of the animals routine, management and behaviour are taken. Gathering this information must be done without judgement – generally people do what they think is best to resolve their problem and taking a judgemental stance will prevent the client being honest and open. The client must be reassured and forewarned of the need to complete a questionnaire about their pet. The person collecting information should be genuinely interested in getting as much detail as possible but must do it sensitively and professionally. This process must be followed whether or not the animal has behaviour problems. The more information that is taken on an animal the more likely it is to be successfully rehomed.
In addition to the usual health checks, vaccination status etc the following is a list of questions that should be asked. The questions are only a starting point and should be developed and explored as the initial answers are given. Questions are better kept open (avoid yes and no answers) to ensure descriptive and qualitative information. GENERAL QUESTIONS THAT ARE ASKED OF DOGS AND CATS:
AGE
SEX (NEUTERED)
AGE NEUTERED
BREED
TEMPERAMENT DETAILS
THE FOLLOWING GIVE A GOOD INDICATION OF THE OVERALL BEHAVIOUR OF THE ANIMAL:
How does he behave with strangers (men and women)?
How does he behave with children (0-4years, 5-12 years, teenagers)?
How does he behave with dogs, cats?
How confident is he?
How affectionate/tactile? How does he show this?
How does he behave when restrained/groomed?
Is he frightened of anything (noise, vets, cars etc)?
How does he behave at the vets?
How long can he be left without problems?
Is he accustomed to travelling, mode of transport, how does he appear when travelling (stressed, vocal, sleeps etc)? Is he housetrained?
When and what is he fed (try and keep the animal on the same food and gradually change over to the brand used at the centre)
How old was he when you obtained him?
Where did he come from (breeder – kept outside, domestic setting, etc)?
Who lives in the home (adults/children/pets)?
How many homes has he had (including yours) – if he has had previous homes why did the previous owners give him up?
Is your home quiet, busy?
As a puppy/kitten did he meet many adults, children, dogs, cats did he have any unpleasant experiences with any of them?
Have you ever needed to punish your pet – if so how did you do it and what were the circumstances?
What makes your dog/cat happiest – list three things How responsive is he to commands and how many commands does he know?
What sort of home do you think your pet would be best suited to?
Did the dog have a lot of opportunity to play with other dogs when growing up?
How did he play with the other dogs? Eg., which dog initiated play, describe how they played etc.
Where does the dog sleep at night?
Is he allowed on furniture?
Can you take bones, toys, and food away easily?
What is your dog’s favourite game – tug of war, chasing, squeaky toys, won’t play with toys, wrestling games with people?
How many times is your dog walked? Is he off lead? How long are the walks?
Has your dog ever growled, barked, snapped or bitten strangers (including visitors to the house) or members of the family?
What were the circumstances?
Does your dog follow you from room to room?
How does your dog try to get your attention?
What does your dog do when left alone?
Is the cat …
Confident?
Sociable?
Does he prefer to be alone?
Can you give medication to the cat easily?
Does the cat like to be picked up?
Does he enjoy being cuddled, stroked?
How does your cat behave with cats outside the home? How many other cats are in the home – how does he interact with them?
Does he use a litter tray (if so what litter is used etc)?
Is this shared with other cats?
Does he have a scratching post – does he use it?
Is he used to going outside?
Can he use a cat flap?
Has the cat been used to living near a busy road?
The answers to these and follow on questions are used to build up an individual profile. In addition to providing a guide as to the most suitable type of new home for the animal it can be used to identify problem behaviour, how and why it developed and how the owner dealt with it. A plan can then be developed as to how to better manage the animal and a programme devised to avoid or resolve the problem.
The information given by the owner is very important as it indicates how the animal behaves in a domestic environment, what it has learned and how it has been managed. But it must be supplemented by observations by staff whilst the animal is at the centre. Ongoing assessment and keeping a record of the initial and ongoing infor mation which all staff dealing with the animal have access to it is essential for successful rehabilitation and rehoming.
This is important for all animals but particularly so for those with no known history eg. strays.
The ability to make predictions from assessment in environments such as kennels and catteries is limited and particularly difficult in cats (whose behaviour tends to be suppressed in new surroundings). Ongoing assessment can help to support the profile and identify problems that may require some work. To be valid the assessments cannot be done as an intensive set of kennel or cattery tests and observations (of the type where people introduce novel items or mildly intimidate to see what response they provoke). Formal testing of this kind is artificial and designed to provoke a response so only give a snapshot of the animals behaviour in what is, already, a challenging situation and as such do not yield reliable results. Assessments are more realistic and predictive of the animal’s coping strategies if carried out by appropriately trained staff during the normal routine of handling and caring for the dog or cat. For example noting how the dog behaves when out for a walk or how well the cat tolerates grooming, builds up a more accurate picture of the animal’s responses and ability to cope with new situations. These ‘real life’ situations are far more useful and predictive than contrived ‘formal’ tests.
The contrasts between a home environment and a kennel or cattery is immense and seeing how well most animals cope with the transition is a testimony to just how adaptable and robust most animals are. However some animals’ behaviour will deteriorate whilst in kennels and catteries.
This can be minimised by careful attention to their routine, environment and handling. A routine gives the animal predictability of ‘what will happen when’ and add to the feeling of security. The kennel or cattery design should enhance this security and provide an area for the animal to retreat to if they are feeling overwhelmed or threatened. Physical comfort should also be ensured, temperature should be appropriate for the animal, the housing should be dry and draft free and noise kept to a minimum. Ensuring the dogs have a routine so that barking is restricted to times of excitement, eg. feeding times, can reduce noise in kennels. Radios should not be too loud or left on all day.
Environmental enrichment should provide for the animals’ behavioural needs. For example, cats need scratching posts, boxes to hide in, toys and high shelving. Dogs need toys; chew items and many enjoy extras such as paddling pools. Dogs also benefit from regular walks in a variety of different areas – pavements near traffic, fields near livestock, and of course, they benefit most from one to one time with people. These activities not only contribute to the assessment of each dog but also prevent them losing their familiarity with a variety of environments. Handling should be done daily, should be non-intrusive and gentle. Gradually these sessions should be built up to full grooming sessions and ‘vet’ like inspections. With basic routines and handling methods in place and consideration given to the animals’ environment the next step is to work out what rehabilitation work needs to be done.
When an animal is identified as needing rehabilitation it is important to discuss and agree a plan of action for that dog or cat. Staff meetings when everyone can feed back their experience with the animal are a useful starting point. A plan of action must be agreed and then adhered to by all staff. Reminders such as notes on the animal’s accommodation must be clearly posted. Progress reports must be kept to ensure each individual takes respon sibility in carrying out the programme. Progress should be monitored and regularly reviewed to ensure the rehabilitation programme is improving the animal’s behaviour.
Ideally members of public should not have access to the animal accommodation as it is stressful for the animals to have strangers frequently approaching them. However, as members of the public usually have access to the animal areas they may need to be advised as to how to behave around a particular animal. If constant supervision is not possible then instructions must be clearly displayed. For instance an animal that is intimidated by people staring at it may have a sign displayed asking people not to stare – and most importantly why they should not stare. An alternative behaviour must also be given such as looking past the animal and speaking softly. If people understand why they have been asked to do something, and given an alternative behaviour, they are much more likely to comply and not hinder the progress of the dog or cat.
The public can even form part of the rehabilitation plan. Where animals are timid but not aggressive a small holder can be attached to the front of the kennel or cattery and filled with food treats. A notice can be attached asking people to throw a tit bit in as they pass. This helps the animal associate strangers with a treat rather than intrusion. With young or boisterous dogs this can be taken further. The food treat should only be given if he is sitting quietly by the door (this should be reinforced by staff before relying entirely on the public). This is surprisingly effective and engages the public as well as the animal.
Having fishing rod type toys available in the cattery encourages the public to spend time playing with the animals in a non-intrusive way and can be done through the mesh of most cattery fronts. In addition to encouraging the animal to form pleasant associations with strangers these methods also assist in keeping the animals occupied.
Bored and under stimulated animals are likely to invent ways of occupying themselves. Usually the things they find to do are not what pet owners want. Cats and dogs both benefit from being taught how to play with toys. Not only does it channel their energy and provide an outlet for some of their natural behaviours, it also assists in building bonds between the animal and people. Keeping the animals occupied and breaking up their day gives them something to look forward to and helps prevent their behaviour deteriorating. Feeding dogs at least twice a day helps them utilise their food more effectively but again adds an extra positive encounter with their handler and an opportunity to train eg. asking the dog to sit before feeding. Feeding dry food via a food ball is something that the more active cats seem to particularly benefit from. They are kept active ‘chasing’ their food and this outlet for their normal hunting behaviour also appears to reduce some cats’ aggression towards their handlers.
Short, regular, handling sessions for both cats and dogs is particularly useful – these should be pleasant and done at times other than those used to give medication etc.
Basic training can also make a big difference – particularly for dogs. Teaching good manners, self-control and how to work for rewards not only makes a dog easier to re-home but it also channels their energy, develops alternative behaviours that can be rewarded and prevents reinforcing unwanted behaviour. Basic exercises include waiting by doors, not jumping up, walking on a lead, sit, down and coming when called. Training must be consistent and implemented from the time the dog first arrives at the centre. Rewarding the dog whenever it displays the required behaviour will ensure it will quickly learn the desired behaviours and, as unwanted behaviours don’t bring praise, food or games, they gradually extinguish. This need not take any additional time as it can be incorporated in the dog’s daily walk. Walking dogs that are kennelled is essential – not only does the dog get attention on a one-to-one basis and a break from the kennel but as mentioned earlier it is an ideal opportunity for the handler to assess the dog and note how it behaves when it comes across traffic, strangers and other animals.
It is always important that any medical conditions are ruled out but problems not involving aggression can often be dealt with very effectively in the kennel or cattery. For example, attention-seeking problems are often resolved in rehoming centres as people are just not available to respond to behaviours exhibited to get attention. However it is essential that staff and visitors acknowledge and reward calm and quiet behaviour. This can be continued when the animal is rehomed with the new owners advised when to give attention and when to withhold it, therefore ensuring the animal quickly learns what behaviour is needed in then new home.
Spraying by cats, often caused by stressors – such as too many cats in the home, dogs, lots of visitors etc can be resolved by correctly identifying the problem (from the questions taken when admitted) and rehoming to an environment in which the cat is more likely to cope. For example, a quiet home with no other pets.
House training problems can be resolved by providing the cat with a suitable covered, private litter tray and ensuring that a similar litter is used in the new home, placed in a quiet area easily accessible to the cat. Dogs that have not been house trained or their house training has broken down can be re-homed with advice on appropriate house training methods and ensuring that the dog has been well exercised and toileted before going into the home for the first time. Similar advice will also prevent the breakdown of house training, as many animals are excited or nervous at being taken to a new home – in the excitement they may urinate or defecate in the home, especially if they have had a long car journey. This marks out for them a new ‘toilet area’ and in a new home they only way they can identify where to toilet is by smell.
It is also important to stress to the new owner to start off as they intend to continue. Many owners feel sorry for their new pets and indulge them in behaviours that may not be acceptable later on in the relationship. For example, dogs may initially be allowed on the furniture, but when they are settled in or when the weather is wet the owner decides that they can no longer be on furniture. Having to learn new rules is confusing for the dog and may cause conflict. It is better for all, speeds up the settling in process and prevents problems developing, if the animal has consistency from day one.
Nervousness is a common problem in dogs and cats that are in rehoming centres and it often stems from inadequate early life experience. Whilst that can never be fully overcome a gentle desensitisation programme will start to help the animal readjust and cope with life. It is important that nervous animals are kept safe and relatively quiet – so place cats well away from the kennels and keep nervous dogs in quiet areas of the kennels. Avoid over-stressing the animal by having multiple handlers or intrusive practices. Initially just one or two members of staff should care for
the animal. Allow the animal to build a bond with them before introducing new people. Basic considerations are:
• Handling the animal at times other than when needing to do intrusive procedures such as worming and vaccination.
• Giving the animal a sense of control in its ability to move away and feel safe. So cats need a hiding place and high up shelving. Dogs need an area they will not be stared at (simply achieved by throwing a blanket over the front of the kennel door so it is partly obscured and the dog can hide behind it). Animals that know they have a safe retreat are much more likely to come forward and investigate new people and situations.
• Trying to link the people and things the animal is afraid of with something the animal enjoys – so a stranger may engage the animal in play or offer a particularly tasty food treat, as discussed above. Ensure that the ‘scary’ thing is not so great or intrusive that it overrides the animal’s desire for the treat or game.
• Allowing the animal to approach rather than approaching the animal – this takes longer initially but by going at the animal’s pace it will help the animal to develop his confidence and learn to trust people. Progress is then much quicker.
• Teaching the animal alternative behaviours, eg. giving a paw, lying down, etc, is also useful – nervous and fearful animals really appreciate being given a different way of coping – but only if you ensure they are not threatened or overwhelmed. If the animal does not trust you it will have to rely on old behaviour patterns to cope with new situations.
• Training a new behaviour is something that is often considered and done with dogs but rarely with cats. Cats in particular respond very well to clicker training and now that clicker training is becoming more popular and more people are becoming competent at using it, it is an ideal method for re-training many cats. However care should be taken that the cat is a suitable candidate otherwise the training may become another stressor in the environment.
Rehabilitating aggressive animals depends on the type of aggression, how long the animal has been aggressive and how severe the aggression is. If staff, public or other animals are seriously at risk of injury then the decision may be taken not to attempt rehabilitation. However many types of aggression may be avoided and controlled by careful rehoming and advice. However the trigger for the aggression must be clearly identified and managed.
Some aggression, particularly in older dogs and cats, may be attributed to pain. After veterinary examination careful handling and treatment for painful conditions such as arthritis often transforms the animal’s behaviour.
Cats aggressive towards other cats in the home can be rehomed singularly and in an area where there are few other cats. (Despotic cats are an exception as they may travel considerable distances to find and attack other cats). By not being forced into close contact with other cats the cat will be able to avoid encounters with them and general aggression levels will fall. Cats may also be aggressive towards their owners – this can be for a variety of reasons but most can be reduced by ensuring the cat has sufficient stimulation – access to outdoors or appropriate play with a fishing rod type toy (these are particularly good as the owner can keep a safe distance from the cat). Owners can also be taught to recognise early warning signs and management techniques. Cats that bite or scratch when picked up can be taught to jump on the owners lap by luring up with a prawn or tuna fish. Watching out for body language and facial expressions that accompany aggression, such as twitching skin, tail flicks and body stiffening will enable the owner to move before the cat tries to move them.
Dogs that are aggressive against other dogs can become much worse in kennels but if there is the option of isolating them (for example keeping him in the staff room) and teaching him to bond strongly with humans then a great deal can be done at the centre. When the dog has developed a strong bond with people it can be gradually exposed to the other dogs in a controlled and safe way. Additional control can be achieved by using a head collar (this is particularly important if the dog is large and powerful) that will give the handler the opportunity to divert the dog’s attention and prevent him lunging towards the other dogs.
In all cases follow-up behaviour advice and support can help the new owner to resolve the problem (the new owner must be fully informed of the problem prior to adoption). It is the ongoing support that ensures the owner is motivated and confident enough to resolve the problem.
Matching animals with new owners takes a lot of time and effort, but not doing it is a false economy. Getting the right match saves a great deal of time, as the same animals aren’t returned for ‘recycling’. It is better to refuse a prospective owner an animal that is not suitable and keep it for a while longer, than place it just because it is better in a home rather than a rescue centre. By fully explaining the decision to the perspective owner and identifying a more suitable animal for them you have a better-educated owner and increased the chance of the adoption being successful. However, this policy must be flexible.
Of course it is important that we do everything to rehome correctly the first time around. Failing to do so costs time and money which charities can ill afford and more importantly has a negative impact on animal welfare. Moving from home to home and being brought back into kennels/catteries – however well run, is unsettling and distressing for dogs and cats. In all cases follow-up behaviour advice and support can help the new owner to resolve the problem.
The unsettling experience of changing homes and the different expectations of different people can lead to behaviour problems developing which the new owner will find problematic. These cannot always be foreseen but if the client has been made to feel comfortable during the adoption process and information has been freely available they are much more likely to seek and value advice given by the rehoming organisation. The new owners are also much more likely to seek help as soon as the problem becomes apparent rather than waiting for it to become unmanageable. In the early stages most behaviour problems can be explained and resolved by giving good quality information via the telephone or information leaflets. Some problems, especially those involving aggression will need much more input, including regular visits and an individually prescribed modification programme. Taking this sort of action in good time can prevent new owners having to return the animal.
Taking an interest in each animal and person arriving at a rehoming centre, gaining and passing on as much relevant information as possible about them will ensure the best possible match is made. This combined with ongoing support in the form of good quality information, openness, help and advice ensures a high standard of animal welfare and customer care and maintains the reputation of the rehoming charity.