Ultimate Book of Horse Bits

“For the experienced rider who has mastered the independent seat and the soft, sensitive rein contact, the question of which bit and bridle to use is of little importance.”

If you knew nothing about bits and were forced to buy a new one for some reason or another, you’d be stunned by the variety and potentially overwhelmed by the choice.

While such a plethora of bits means we have plenty of options for trial and error, it doesn’t necessarily mean there’s a “silver bullet” answer for our riding and training problems. As we’ve mentioned earlier in this book, bitting a horse is a training matter, not an equipment matter.

Nonetheless, a thorough knowledge of bits and an ability to sort them out is essential to good horsemanship. If, as we postulate, an experienced rider needs only a well-developed sense of timing, a fine seat with refined leg aids, and an understanding of rein contact, the bit becomes a little beside the point. It’s there to help us refine our ride, or give the horse a reminder with a slightly stronger aid.

It may help to use a different bit as you advance your training and would like to add more finesse and lightness to your ride. In fact, several disciplines, particularly Western bridle horses and dressage horses, switch bits as they move up the training scale. Of all the bits out there, remember: Gadgets don’t fix training problems. Riders fix training problems.

While it may appear that each bit comes in a dizzying array of sizes, cheek pieces, and so forth, there are actually a relatively limited number of styles. If you understand the function of each of the different mouthpieces and shanks, you can put together the pieces for a bit that might help your horse.

There are so many bits on the market today, it’s easy to get overwhelmed. If you remember, however, that bits come in families, it makes the decision process easier.

Before choosing your bit, understand the differences in bit bar widths and how they have an impact on your horse’s mouth. Also, as we described in the anatomy section, take time to explore the inside of your horse’s mouth. Get to know the normal color of his gums and how his lips and cheeks look inside and out, and feel inside his mouth to determine how thick his tongue is and how far from the top of his mouth it is when it’s lying softly on his mouth.

And don’t forget that a bit’s action is the sum of its parts. A horse may like a certain mouthpiece but may actually go better with different cheeks. Bridle fit, noseband, tightness of the curb strap, and the position of the bit in the mouth also play a role. While there are “rules” about bit fit and size, the key is understanding that each horse’s mouth and preferences are different, so work with your horse, not with the rules.

For example, bit makers and researchers have discovered the faultiness of the common wisdom that the thicker the bit, the milder it is. Some researchers have found that a thick bit in a horse with a small mouth and a thick tongue may actually feel more severe to that horse than a similar style in a smaller width. It may be uncomfortable enough for him to want to fight with it in much the same way he would a too-thin bit. Also, our perception of the angle of the bit in the mouth has changed, and bit makers have experimented with angling the mouthpieces so they lie against the tongue in different ways. Some bits are angled forward in the horse’s mouth, some have pieces that are angled backward, and some have a combination of the two.

Another key point is that different styles of mouthpieces should be sized differently. European-made models, for example, may be slightly larger or smaller than the noted size in inches because the millimeters-to-inches conversion isn’t exact. Bits with a loose ring should fit a little wider in the mouth than those with a fixed ring to prevent pinching. There are now different kinds of devices to measure bits, from Sprenger’s measuring kit that measures both the size of the mouth and the proper width of the bit bars, to the plastic “Bit Fit” that fits in your horse’s mouth and allows you to adjust the wheels on either side of his face to determine the size of your bit. You can also experiment, if your tack store will let you, with different sizes of bits. If you don’t want to pay a fortune to purchase a bunch of bits, ask friends to borrow bits of different sizes and styles. Disinfect the bits with Listerine before you return them.

Bits come in a variety of lengths and are measured in two different ways. Lengths of the mouthpieces are generally expressed in inches in the United States and run from 3 ¼ inches (for ponies) to 7 inches (for draft horses). The bit size for an average adult horse is usually between 4 ¾ and 5 ¼ inches. Nonetheless, many horses have abnormally narrow or wide mouths, so be sure to measure. Nicole Polligkeit, a master trainer from Germany who offers clinics for dressage and jumper riders in the United States, noted that she almost always finds at least two or three bits that don’t fit during her clinics.

The size of the mouthpiece (as stated on the store tag) is measured from the inside of one cheek piece to the inside of the other. To know if the mouthpiece fits, place your index finger sideways between the ring and the horse’s cheek. It should fit without too much slack or pressure. If the horse’s “smile”—his lip wrinkles—increases substantially when you slide your finger in between the cheek and the horse, the bit may be too tight. Having such a tight bit basically negates any action the bit might have. It puts constant pressure on the tongue, the bars, and the lips.

For curb bits, you’ll also need to know the three measurements mentioned in chapter 9, as the shank lengths determine the quickness of the fulcrum action and severity of the leverage.

Other measurements to consider are the diameter (thickness) of the mouthpiece and the bit rings. The mouthpiece is measured at its widest point, which is where it attaches to the cheek pieces or rings. Diameter is generally expressed in centimeters. The rings on a loose ring, D-ring, or eggbutt may also be measured from the top to the bottom of the ring.

Ideally, there should be ½ to ¾ inch of clearance between the lips and the ring—approximately the width of your index finger.

Devices like the Bit Fit can help you take an accurate measure of your horse’s mouth.

A bit that’s hanging properly in a horse’s mouth should leave two wrinkles at the corners.

Bits can be divided into four broad categories—direct contact bits, leverage bits, gag bits, and bitless bridles. Even though it helps to categorize them thusly, there are many more that don’t fit into any single family because they’re a combination of several types of bits. For example, the combination hackamore is a “nose bridle” that also has a bit. The Mikmar combination bit has a mouthpiece, a nose string, and direct and leverage bitting options. So while bit and bridle academicians have developed these neat categories, bit design and development advances have made them somewhat obsolete.

Nonetheless, we’ll divide them in the traditional way, noting those that don’t fall cleanly into any of the categories.

Every one of these bits can be misused in the wrong hands, whether or not it is considered a harsh or severe bit. Some of the harshest looking bits can actually be quite gentle in the right hands. Other bits are harsh in any hands and should never have been invented. After all, if a horse needs a bicycle chain in his mouth, he needs a new rider and trainer.

Measure the mouthpiece from inside each ring or shank. Note that European-made bits will not measure exactly in inches because they are sized using metric measurements.

The most common bit today, the snaffle is a direct contact bit. That means that the reins attach to the rings, which are directly attached to the mouthpiece. Pull on the rein and the bit moves. The word snaffle comes from the German word for beak, or nose, Schnabel, or the more archaic version, snavel, circa 1533. Snaffle can refer to the direct contact bit, but the word itself is also used synonymously with the simple direct contact bridle in some English riding circles. Snaffle bit mouthpieces come in many shapes—they may be straight, curved, ported, jointed, double-jointed, plastic, rubber, metal core with rubber covering, or any variation thereof. They can also come with any of the snaffle cheek pieces mentioned in chapter 9.

Luckily, the only version of this cruel bicycle chain bit the author was able to find is a very old, obviously retired model, although they are still sold in some places.

What makes a snaffle a snaffle is not the mouthpiece, but the action of the reins. When the rider pulls on the reins, the horse feels it in his mouth. Where that pressure is located depends on the mouthpiece and cheeks in combination. For the most part, the pressure is on the corners of the lips, the bars, and the tongue. That’s what differentiates it from its fellow bits—not the rings, the mouthpiece, the width, or the size. (see Bitting Myths and Misconceptions, page 128). The rider’s use of the reins also has an impact on the pressure points. If the rider lifts his hands up instead of pulling back, the bit presses on the lips. A lower hand puts more pressure on the bars.

A snaffle bit is one in which pressure on the reins causes a direct impact on the mouthpiece of the bit.

The action of a snaffle is relatively simple to understand. When the bit is at rest in the horse’s mouth, it lays across the tongue. The edges of the bit make contact with the lips and rest lightly on the bars. If the bridle is fit correctly, the horse will have two wrinkles at the corners of his lips. The bit will be located in the inter-dental space between the front incisors and the back molars. Depending on the mouthpiece, the bit drapes on the tongue.

The basic snaffle’s most important attribute is that it offers the rider the ability to use a direct rein and give the horse signals to increase his lateral flexibility. The amount of that flexibility varies greatly according to the mouthpiece. A solid mouthpiece such as a straight bar or ported mouthpiece has much less lateral flexibility than a double-jointed mouthpiece, for example. Still, the snaffle is an excellent all-purpose style that can be used from first bridling to last.

Like the families of cheek pieces, bit mouthpieces have their unique attributes.

It used to be one of the most common bits. Every horse owner seemed to have a single-jointed D-ring or eggbutt snaffle in his or her tack box. While this bit was likely invented centuries ago and is still common, the single-jointed snaffle has a couple of drawbacks.

As the rider picks up the rein contact, the joint folds across the tongue. It forms an upside-down V shape in the mouth, and the canons press down on the bars of the mouth. Simultaneously, the angle of the bit sharpens. The joint pokes toward the roof of the mouth while the canons squeeze the jaw.

A thick, single-jointed snaffle bit was for many years considered the mildest of all bits because it was believed that it spread the pressure across the mouth relatively evenly. However, researchers have used mouth X-rays to discover that the single-jointed snaffle bit is not quite as benign as once thought.

Imagine a nutcracker: When you place the walnut inside the two arms and squeeze, the angle of the nutcracker squeezes two sides of the nut and causes it to crack. And that described the potential problem with a single-jointed bit in a, ahem, nutshell.

Not all riders and snaffle bits cause this problem—the single-jointed snaffle is a perfectly effective and soft bit in the right hands. However, if the rider has hands that constantly pull, a single-jointed snaffle can turn into a much harsher bit than many people realize. This bit style is less severe in the hands of a rider who converses with the horse’s mouth, taking and releasing. The release of the reins softens the angle of the canons and mitigates the squeezing of the jaw.

As such, a properly used single-jointed snaffle can be an effective all-purpose bit. The proper fit is also important to avoid the damaging “nutcracker” action. If the bit is too small, it will pinch the corners of the horse’s mouth and lips, and may lead to sores if used incorrectly. If the bit is too wide, the nutcracker effect is exacerbated by extra length and is more likely to poke the palate and bruise the bars.

This horse is protesting contact—the open mouth and disturbed expression signify that perhaps this single-jointed snaffle doesn’t feel quite right.

The single-jointed snaffle should have just enough room between the lips and the bit rings that you can slide a finger on each side. Also, make sure that your bridle is adjusted evenly and there is an equal amount of bit on either side of the horse’s mouth. You may have to look at your horse from the front, adjusting the sides of the bridle and sliding the bit gently through the mouth so it is even.

The bit rings will have an impact on the play and effect of the single-jointed snaffle. The full-cheek, eggbutt, and D-ring don’t allow much vertical play in the bit. A solid bit ring allows a quicker communication conduit to your horse and is “sharper” than a loose ring, which has much more play in it.

The single-jointed D-ring, eggbutt, or full-cheek snaffle are particularly effective for horses that may have trouble turning and for young horses who need to feel “cause and effect” before graduating to a lighter bit. The loose ring has more flexibility. It is very useful for most light horses who already know the basics.

Western riders who use a snaffle tend to prefer thin, single-jointed mouthpieces with a loose or D-ring cheek. It’s quite rare to find an eggbutt in the Western arena. Western riders have also embraced the shaped mouthpiece of the Myler bits, which are curved, following the arc of the tongue.

While jointed snaffles are considered soft and gentle bits, there are a number of severe versions that should only be used briefly, if at all, under the supervision of a trainer. These mouthpieces come in a variety of materials but share a common theme: When contact is applied to the reins, the effect is sharp against the tongue.

Twisted mouthpieces: These look identical to a single-jointed snaffle, but instead of a smooth surface, the metal has a twist that adds sharp edges. The slow twist has a wider surface and is therefore somewhat less severe than those with very thin mouthpieces and those with more twist—called a fast twist.

If you look closely, you can see that this bit is not straight in the horse’s mouth.

Wire mouthpieces: A single-twisted wire snaffle is one of the most severe direct contact bits on the market today. It is both very thin and very sharp. It is second only to a double-twisted wire, in which the mouthpiece is actually two separate, single-link, single-twisted wire mouthpieces. This is an extremely severe family of bits, and if you think you need one of these, you probably need a trainer who can help you restart your horse. Double-mouthpiece-linked bits, such as the W-mouth or the double-twisted wire, can trap the tongue between the two mouthpieces and cause pinching. To add to the potential seriousness of these bits, you can actually poke the palate with two mouthpieces instead of one.

English leverage bits and bridles often come with two sets of reins, giving the rider the option of working with just the snaffle while letting the leverage rein remain slack until needed.

Myler bits: Among the newer inventions in single-jointed bits are the Myler mouthpieces, which are curved to follow the shape of the mouth, but much thinner. The theory is that the thinner mouthpiece and the curved angle provide more tongue relief than traditional bits. They also feature several unique takes on the Dick Christian and the Dr. Bristol. One interesting element of Myler bits is the way the rings are attached: To prevent the pinching that loose rings can cause, the company has designed a tubular attachment that protects the lips yet still allows the ring to move on the mouthpiece.

The double mouthpiece of this bit is relatively unfriendly to the bars and the tongue. It can easily pinch the tongue, poke the roof of the mouth, and exacerbate the “nutcracker” effect of a single-jointed snaffle.
The angle of the center plate causes it to lie flat against the tongue when the reins are engaged. The Western rider engages the leverage more strongly to encourage a deeper flexing of the horse’s poll.

The double-jointed snaffle is a very good alternative to the nutcracker effect of the single-jointed mouthpiece. The double-jointed snaffle lies across the tongue, resting in a natural arc. It is considered a gentle bit, although that depends on the shape and angle of the center link. When the rider pulls up on the reins, the bit flexes and increases pressure on the horse’s lips. When the rider pulls back on the reins, the bit conforms to the horse’s tongue shape, and that’s where he feels the pressure.

The double-jointed snaffle is fit in the same manner as the single-jointed bit. There should be no more than a finger’s width between the cheek and the bit ring. Because the bit is looser in the horse’s mouth, there’s much more give in the entire apparatus. The double-jointed snaffle applies more pressure against the lips and the tongue, but less pressure on the bars. Double-jointed snaffles are particularly popular with dressage riders because they tend to invite horses to accept the bit more readily, while at the same time discouraging them from leaning on the bit or becoming too heavy because the mouthpiece has so much flexibility.

The curved canons of the Myler bit are reputed to be softer on the tongue and bars than a normal single-link snaffle.

These days, many Western trainers also choose the double-jointed snaffle for starting horses. A double-jointed snaffle is an excellent, all-around choice for any well-trained, direct-reined horse.

Double-jointed snaffles can cause different reactions in the horse’s mouth depending on the size, shape, and angle of the middle piece. A smooth piece that’s more or less the same shape as the rest of the bit is one of the most comfortable and well-designed options on the market today. It’s comfortable for the horse because it forms a single, smooth, and yet very flexible surface that follows the shape of the horse’s tongue. The flexibility encourages the horse to play with the bit and release his jaw.

Double-jointed snaffles come with a variety of shapes in the center pieces. This is a lozenge double-jointed snaffle from Sprenger.

When a rider pulls on the reins attached to a double-jointed snaffle, the bit rotates on its axis and slides back along the tongue. There is very little pressure on the sensitive bones of the jaw or on the roof of the mouth.

The Dr. Bristol’s center plate is angled so the edge presses on the tongue when the bit is engaged. It is slightly stronger than a French link.

The double-jointed snaffle bit comes with a variety of link options in the middle. This can be a simple figure-eight-shaped plate—Western riders call it a dog bone—that attaches to each side of the canons, or it can be a “lozenge” or a bead that is shaped like an olive. Other choices include a small rubber ball or a copper barrel (sometimes called a cricket) that spins when the horse plays with it. These latter two options entice the horse to move his tongue, which signals him to produce saliva and soften his jaw.

A double-jointed mouthpiece can also have a metal ring (a Dick Christian) or two metal rings in the shape of a figure-eight. Sprenger makes a double-jointed bit with a small disk in the center of the middle lozenge that rolls—particularly effective for horses that tend to lock their jaws and tongues in place, lack softness, and don’t chew. The disk gives the horse something to play with.

Some of these bits now have a center lozenge that’s offset at a 45-degree angle or made of a different material. The effect this has is to make the joint roll to match the angle of the tongue as the rider takes up contact. Some unique styles of double-jointed snaffles are described below.

This loose-ring spinner by Equine Industry is designed to help the horse keep his tongue under the bit.

Dr. Bristol: This bit has a long, rectangular plate in the center instead of a lozenge. Because of the length and relative sharpness of the edge of this plate, the Dr. Bristol tends to have more “bite”—or sharpness—than those bits with a rounded ball, bean, or lozenge in the center. When the reins are applied, the plate’s edge presses down on the tongue. When the reins are soft, the plate rests across the surface of the tongue.

French link: A mouthpiece that’s frequently confused with the Dr. Bristol is the French link (also called a dog bone). The two are quite different. The French link has a figure-eight-shaped plate in the middle with beveled edges and very large holes through which the canons are attached. Because of its shape, the French link has less flat surface area on the tongue than the Dr. Bristol. The center portion of a French link is angled 45 degrees from the canons. When the reins are passive, the mouthpiece rests across the tongue, but when the rider takes up contact, the mouthpiece rotates, and the link lies flat on the tongue. The French link is considered a gentler bit than the Dr. Bristol.

Unlike the Dr. Bristol, the French link has a figure-8-shaped center. It is sometimes called a “dog bone.”

Dick Christian: One of the harsher variations of the double-jointed snaffle is the Dick Christian bit, in which the lozenge is replaced by a ring that lies on the tongue. The Dick Christian is a relatively rare bit found mostly in the U.K. It has an “edge” like the Dr. Bristol, but the ring might discourage a horse from putting his tongue over the bit.

The angle of the center plate causes it to lie flat against the tongue when the reins are tightened.

Single bar mouthpieces are made from a single piece of metal or rubber and do not have any links. While they may seem harsher than linked snaffle bits, that’s not necessarily true. Like linked bits, they come in various widths, shapes, and materials, and with a wide variety of cheek pieces. Some bar mouth bits have ports, or upside down U’s, in the center. They can be made of rubber, vulcanite, or Nathe, or metals such as copper, Aurigan, or stainless steel. In fact, a rubber bar mouth with flexibility is considered one of the softest bits available, and it may be preferable to some jointed bits in its taste and gentle action.

Brass rings help the horse to accept the bit, salivate, and soften in the mouth.

Mullen mouth: This is one of the most common of the single bar snaffles. It has a slight bow to it, allowing room for the tongue, and it applies a diffused pressure over the tongue, the bars, and the lips. The mullen mouth comes in all the usual materials. In its snaffle form it is considered a fairly mild bit. As with most single-bar mouthpieces, the mullen mouth doesn’t encourage much flexion in the horse’s jaw. The mullen mouth is a common bit for driving horses, where independent movement of either side of the horse’s mouth isn’t as necessary as straightness to the contact. Rubber mullen mouths work very well for horses who are very sensitive to metal. The rubber is thick enough that it provides a comfortable cushion against the tongue, while the flexibility allows give and play in the mouthpiece.

A copper mullen mouth gives the horse stability, but not a lot of encouragement to flex laterally.

Straight bar: A somewhat stronger single bar bit is the straight bar. Pressure placed on the reins will press directly on the bars of the mouth. There is no room for the tongue to move away from the pressure to gain relief and there is very little flexibility. A straight bar bit might be a good option for horses that run through the rider’s half halt, because it does give a fair amount of “whoa” to the horse that may be ignoring his rider.

Ported bits: As long as the reins are attached directly to the mouthpiece, the ported bit is still a snaffle, even though some people think a port on a single bar mouthpiece makes it a curb bit (see Myths and Misconceptions, page 128). In this case, the port actually serves to relieve the pressure of the bit on the tongue, rather than swiveling back and forth on its fulcrum with rein pressure, as in a leverage bit. Ports can be high, low, wide, or narrow.

This unique bit has a Segundo-style mouthpiece. It is a good bit for horses that need a little more than a snaffle, but don’t quite need a leverage bit.

While somewhat rare, ported loose ring, eggbutt, and other cheek piece snaffles do exist. Like all single-bar bits, ported bits lack the flexibility of a double- or single-jointed mouthpiece, but the port allows room for the tongue. They generally do not work well for horses that need additional work on jaw flexion and softness because they don’t have much “play” in the mouth.

Ported snaffle bits are used by both English and Western riders when they are making the transition from a snaffle—direct contact—to a leverage bit, such as a curb or a Weymouth. They can also be used for horses who dislike the rattle of the jointed bit in their mouths and prefer a steadier mouthpiece. Ported bits vary in severity primarily by the height of the port and the amount of tongue, bar, and lip pressure they apply when there is rein contact. A general rule of thumb is, the softer the arc of the metal, the gentler the bit. An arched “correction” bit with a flattened-out port and gently arched canons allows the tongue to rest in its natural position with little pressure when the reins are not engaged. Conversely, the Hanoverian bit has a high, deep port that could poke the palate, along with the straight canons that press on the bars when too much pressure is applied.

Waterford: This bit is used mostly in the hunter/jumper arena. It serves its purpose well—to encourage a horse that leans on the bit to carry himself. Most experts agree that a Waterford is a training bit, used temporarily to fix a problem. With just a series of links attached to the bit rings, this mouthpiece is really just a somewhat softer version of a chain. It is so flexible it provides no support for the horse. The Waterford, like other snaffles, comes with various bit rings, and should be fit a size wider than a regular jointed snaffle to prevent lip pinching. Any sawing motion with the hands, no matter how light—even just squeezing the reins with the fists—is going to drag this bit back and forth across the horse’s tongue and have an impact on the horse’s mouth. Additionally, it is practically impossible to establish a steady contact in such a flexible bit, so it’s not for dressage and rarely seen in Western circles. It is a worthwhile option for retraining jumpers, but should be used by an experienced rider with steady hands, and even then with caution.

The Magennis, or MacGuiness as it is sometimes called, provides a textured surface for the horse to play with. It needs to be used by educated hands. A rider who “saws” with his hands can do serious damage to the horse’s tongue.

Magennis: This bit (also known as the MacGuinness) is a single-jointed bit with rollers embedded in the mouth. The square shape of the mouthpiece is sharper on the tongue, and the rollers encourage salivation. It also prevents the horse from crossing his jaws. These bits have gone out of fashion so it’s rare to find one in use. Like the Waterford, squeeze each hand alternately—“saw” on the reins and you’ll be sawing a crevice in your horse’s tongue.

Flute bit: Another interesting variation is the “windsucker,” “whistle,” or “flute” bit. It has a hollow core, making it light, and holes in the mouthpiece. Flute bits come in straight bar and single-linked versions. Leaving a whistle bit in a horse’s mouth to prevent windsucking is an old wives’ tale. Its real use, like bits made of unique materials such as sweet iron or copper, is to encourage a softer, wetter mouth. Despite its names, the flute bit has nothing to do with a horse’s respiration. Horses are exclusively nose breathers, so putting holes in a mouthpiece would have no impact on a horse’s ability to breathe.

While leverage cheeks can be different shapes and sizes, the mouthpieces of leverage bits fall into the same categories as those of snaffles. The leverage action, however, means the mouthpieces apply pressure in slightly different ways.

We return now to a quick bit anatomy lesson. The snaffle has direct contact from the rider’s hand to the rein through the bit ring and to the bit. Once that pressure is applied the horse feels it in different places on his head: tongue, bars, lips, palate, and poll (through the bridle).

The leverage cheeks add a new dimension to how the bit interacts with the horse’s overall way of going and his head in the bridle. Leverage bits are designed to encourage the horse to flex at the poll through the use of pressure on his chin. The mouth, as a general rule, is less engaged in the overall bit action than with a snaffle. Horses wearing leverage bits should already understand lateral and jaw flexion, because leverage bits—even those with hinged shanks, are not designed for this purpose.

Snaffle Bit Overview

In general, a thicker mouthpiece is softer than a thin one. This doesn’t necessarily apply to all horses, since those with small mouths and low palates may find thick bits uncomfortable, and as such, more harsh.

A bit attached to a loose ring—with rings that can turn through the holes in the bit—has horizontal and vertical movement. The flexibility means a horse is able to play with the bit in his mouth. A gentle aid serves as a reminder, rather than a demand. Loose, flexible bits generally work well for asking young horses to accept the bit, and for many who are already trained. It’s a great all-purpose, go-to option for most horses.

A single-jointed bit has a nutcracker effect on the jaw when both reins are pulled at the same time. In the right hands, however, single-jointed bits are perfectly fine, all-purpose bits.

A double-jointed bit is both flexible and soft. The sharper the edges in the plates or rings in the middle joint, the more severe the bit. Dr. Bristol and Dick Christian bits, for example, are one step more severe than a KK bit. The rotation of the bit and the contact of a sharper edge with the tongue when rein pressure is applied means that these bits are potential options for horses that are a little less responsive but by and large cooperative. They might be worth trying for the horse that’s heavy in the hands.

Cheeks matter in the overall effect of the bit. Loose rings allow the mouthpiece to slide up and down. Full cheeks, D-rings, and eggbutts have no vertical play.

The looser the cheek, the more lateral mobility the horse’s mouth has. Hinges or loose rings have more lateral mobility that a solidly welded cheek.

The looser and wider the bit ring, the more “warning” the horse will have and the longer it will take for him to feel the rider’s hand signals. The rein slides on the ring before it engages.

Conversely, the more solidly attached and small the cheek, the quicker the horse feels the rein reaction. The horse receives an almost instant signal from a very small-ringed D-ring or full cheek.

Mouthpieces that have some arc, or “mullen,” to them equalize the pressure over the top and sides of the tongue and against the bars.

A very straight, solid mouthpiece leaves little room for tongue relief. Pressure is consistent and can be quite harsh.

The Western rider engages the leverage more strongly to encourage a deeper flexing of the horse’s poll. Note the angle of the shanks.

Horses that work in a nose-out frame, such as barrel racers and working cow horses, use curved shanks.

Proper adjustment of the curb strap is vital to a leverage bit’s effectiveness. Like proper mouthpiece fit, the curb strap’s fit, as well as the material you choose, is part of the overall effect of the leverage bit. A too-loose curb strap negates or slows down the action of the bit. A too-tight strap can cause discomfort and makes the action of the bit quicker and sharper. A properly adjusted curb strap is flat with no twists, and has room for two fingers between the horse and the strap or chain.

Curb or leverage bits are a more severe option than a snaffle, due to the extra pressure on the poll, chin, and tongue, and the overall leverage action. They should be used by experienced riders and well-trained horses who understand the concept of self-carriage—whether English or Western.

A connector, sometimes called a delta, turns the two reins of a Pelham into a single rein.

As we discussed in chapter 9, there are two basic types of Western bit shanks—those that curve and those that are straight. Western mouthpieces range from single-jointed to high-ported spade bits. Whether the cheeks or shanks are fixed or swivel determines whether the rider can effectively use direct reining. Those “fixed cheeks” are for horses that already have developed some lateral flexibility. They don’t need the encouragement of a direct rein to keep their jaw flexible. Fixed cheeks are welded onto the mouthpiece and do not move. Swivel cheeks or “loose jaw” cheeks have hinges. When the rider uses a direct rein, the shank or cheek moves to the side. It helps the horse to develop a softer jaw.

Horses that work in a nose-out, forward-going discipline, such as roping and barrel racing, are generally ridden in bits with curved shanks. The curve is both a function of tradition and also stays out of the way of the activity. Horses that are ridden in a rounder frame, with their noses perpendicular to the ground, tend to be ridden in straighter-shanked bits. This is quite similar to the English disciplines, where dressage horses with higher-level training wear straight-shanked leverage bits.

What follows is a brief description of some of the most popular leverage bit families.

The Pelham bit has shanks of varying lengths. It has three or four rings on each shank, each serving a different purpose. The top ring attaches to the bridle. The largest ring (closest to the mouthpiece) attaches to the first set of reins, which, when used by itself, has no leverage. The next, little ring attaches to a lip strap, which is optional. The lower ring is for the second set of reins, which add the leverage action to the Pelham.

The rider using the Pelham bit has a couple of different options. He can hold both the snaffle and the curb rein in different hand configurations, depending on how much leverage he wants or needs on the bit; he can leave the curb rein soft, gathering it up only when necessary; or he can use both reins in a steadier contact. He can also attach a connector—called a delta or a rounding—between the two reins. This allows the rider to use just one pair of reins but engages both the snaffle and the leverage action. Roundings can be used with riders who are just learning to use curb bits, who don’t know how, or don’t want to bother with two pairs of reins. The curb strap of the Pelham should have two fingers’ width between the chain and the chin.

Pelhams can come with linked or single-bar mouthpieces. Several common styles are described below.

Hartwell: The most common variety is a single bar with a small port, called a Hartwell or ported mouth. This bit has a small port that allows room for the tongue. Although Pelhams generally have swivel shanks, there is very little lateral action in a straight bar Pelham. When the rider engages the curb rein, it simultaneously swivels the port onto the tongue while engaging poll pressure. It also presses on the bars of the mouth. Port-mouth Pelhams are very popular in the jumper and hunter rings, because they allow the rider to achieve both a modicum of “whoa” and balance while maintaining a properly flexed poll and head position.

Rubber mullen mouth Pelham: Like the mullen mouth snaffle, this is one of the gentlest forms of this bit. It allows plenty of soft flexibility while still engaging the leverage action. The pressure on the bars is still active, but is very soft. This is a good transition bit for the rider just learning to use a Pelham style bit, because even with its leverage action, the rubber mouth makes it very benign and forgiving. It is not recommended for those who need the power of bar pressure to control an overly exuberant horse. Tightening the reins brings the edges of the bit slightly closer together, which lightly loosens the curb strap, making it a little ineffective.

Arch-mouth Pelham: This mouthpiece is made of metal and has a mullen-like arc. It gives the rider a bit more control than the rubber version because the bar and tongue pressure comes from a solid metal. It’s a good step up from a mullen mouth, but is not quite as potentially severe as the Hartwell.

The arc of this Pelham allows room for the tongue. It also has short shanks, so the leverage is very light.

Single-link Pelhams: These bits have recently become more popular (see Myths and Misconceptions, page 128). These mouthpieces aren’t a good option for riders who don’t understand the concept of pressure and release. Sustained pressure placed on the bars and the lower jaw results in a “nutcracker” of the canons of the bit. If you apply that concept to the Pelham style, there’s an additional drawback: As the canons are drawn together by rein pressure, it actually loosens the curb strap or chain. If the chain is too loose, it loses its effectiveness overall and can become an irritant to the horse, dangling against his chin. The rider has to pull much harder to achieve any type of pressure, which of course increases the pressure on tongue and bars as well as the potential of the joint poking into the roof of the mouth.

On this short-shanked Pelham, the single link mouthpiece works like a single-jointed snaffle when the snaffle rein is engaged.

Another key problem with the linked Pelham is that it is a misconstrued hybrid: with a flexible mouthpiece on a bit designed to be used in a curb style, it offers neither the encouragement to flex the jaw nor the leverage action of the engaged curb strap. And contrary to popular belief, a jointed Pelham is not a “beginner’s” Pelham, because of the enhanced nutcracker effect when the leverage rein is engaged. Using a Pelham with a jointed bit requires a very well-schooled horse who needs little rein pressure to respond.

Hanoverian: This mouthpiece on a Pelham is an older style bit, used primarily in the U.K. and mostly for polo ponies, jumpers, and other excitable types of horses. It has a very high port that’s jointed, which allows some independent control of either side of the horse’s mouth. The Hanoverian Pelham is quite a strong bit, because engaging the leverage rein applies a lot of pressure on the bars and the tongue. It’s a bit similar to the Western spade bit in that it rests lightly until needed, and then is quite strong.

Double-linked, French link, and Dr. Bristol: These Pelhams offer the flexibility and softness of these mouthpieces, but not very much leverage. Because these bits have so much movement, engaging the leverage rein loosens the curb chain, but adds just a little bit of added pressure on the bars.

New mouthpieces: New innovations in Pelham bit mouthpieces include the Happy Mouth, with its signature wavy mouthpiece; the Dynamic from Sprenger, which features the company’s angled lozenge in the center of a double-linked mouthpiece; and the Myler, with its signature barrel and arced mouthpiece that curves over the tongue. Mikmar has created its own version of the Pelham, with a very wide mouthpiece made of lightweight alloy, a copper roller, and a slanted-back port to rest on tongue.

A jointed Pelham from Mikmar. The wide, lightweight mouthpiece covers more tongue area than the other Pelhams.

The D-ring, non-slotted, single-jointed Kimberwicke mouthpiece differs very little from a D-ring snaffle except for one important point: the Kimberwicke has a curb strap and rectangular bridle rings. The shape and location of the bridle rings add a little more leverage than a simple D-ring. An Uxeter Kimberwicke, which has slots for reins, together with a single jointed mouthpiece is more effective, but for the real results of a Kimberwicke, an Uxeter with a ported single-bar mouthpiece is the most effective of this style of bit.

Mullen mouth, ported, and Hanoverian mouthpieces are all available with Kimberwicke cheek pieces.

The baby Pelham Dr. Bristol is two bits in one: a Dr. Bristol snaffle, and a jointed Pelham, depending on which set of reins is engaged.

For most readers, this section won’t be particularly useful. The double bridle is now almost exclusively used on upper-level dressage horses and for some park horses, such as Tennessee Walkers and Saddlebreds. In a way, it’s very similar to how a spade bit is used in Western riding, which is only after the horse has reached a very high level of training.

The fit of the double-bridle is very important. The snaffle bit sits above the curb, with the chain flat and between the two.

Double bridles consist of a Weymouth curb bit and a bradoon (or bridoon) snaffle with small loose rings. The Weymouth is very similar to a bar-mouth or ported Pelham, only it’s built to be used in a double bridle. The bradoon is similar to a loose ring snaffle, only it, too, is designed to be used with the double bridle. The mouthpieces can vary in width, depending on the size of the horse’s mouth and his preferences. Most importantly, the Weymouth must fit correctly, with very little space between the bit cheek and horse’s cheek. Riders who use double bridles commonly prefer a thinner, low-ported curb bit and a single or double-jointed bradoon in combination.

A bit similar to the English-style Pelham, the Argentine bit has a snaffle ring and a shorter-shanked curb ring. It generally has a single-link mouthpiece, which, when used with the curb rein alone, makes it similar to the Tom Thumb. But when used in combination with a pair of reins attached to the snaffle ring, it can be a good bit for converting from snaffle to curb. Use a delta or a converter to turn the two pairs of reins into one.

The controversial Tom Thumb is often used as a “move-up” bit for Western horses going from snaffle to curb. However, the nutcracker effect is heightened when the rider engages the reins.

The Argentine bit has a snaffle rein as well as a curb rein. This is a much better option for moving up the Western training scale than the Tom Thumb.

Both of these options have a rather high port but are flattened instead of round. Some have a roller in the middle to encourage tongue play. This is a very strong bit with the potential for harming the roof of the horse’s mouth. It is for the finished bridle horse and the experienced rider.

This is a flattened, high port that’s wider than a spoon port. It often comes with a copper roller in the middle and linked, rather than solid connections to the canons. This is a good bit for the very well-trained bridle horse that needs a little encouragement to loosen his jaw.

The high-ported cathedral bit allows room for the tongue. Many have rounded instead of flattened ports. Its high port can make contact with the roof of the mouth, so it is for experienced hands on well-trained horses.

A jointed mouthpiece covered with a barrel, the Billy Allen is a hybrid between the link bit and a solid-mouthed bit. Most Billy Allens come with a snaffle ring and a shank allowing reining multiple options. It’s a good bit for transitioning from the snaffle to the curb.

Like the double bridle for dressage, the spade bit is for the highly trained horse and rider pair. Generally, a spade bit is a combination of several elements: a high port angled toward the back of the throat, made of a spoon, cricket, and copper-covered braces. The horse is trained to pick up the bit, rather than respond to its pressure. The angle of the spoon prevents the port from poking the roof of the horse’s mouth.

Your spade bit could have a high leverage action or a low leverage action. It depends on where the mouthpiece is placed in relationship to the shanks—higher up or lower down.

The spade bit has many components that have an impact on its action. The cheek pieces on some spade bits swivel. Like mouthpieces on other curb bits, the spade can come with a softer mouthpiece that curves against the bars, or a straighter mouthpiece that has more pressure on the bars. Spade bits, and horses properly trained to wear them, are both works of art.

1) Leverage bits are for riders who understand the impact of these bits on a horse’s mouth and head, or riders under supervision of a trainer. A leverage bit with a snaffle rein makes a good starter leverage bit or one for a horse that gets overly exuberant doing certain activities. The rider can engage the leverage when needed and leave it slack when things are fine. For English riders, changing to a thinner snaffle or one with a different shape may be just as effective as putting a leverage bit in a horse’s mouth.

2) The longer the shank, the more pounds per square millimeter of pressure will be engaged when the rider takes up the reins.

3) Leverage bits are not a substitute for good training, but can be used to reinforce a training lesson (“wait, balance, pay attention to my seat, drop your poll, flex more”). In the Western arena, leverage or curb bits should be used only after the horse and rider have been well trained to neck rein, with the rider understanding the proper engagement of leverage with the timing of his aids and correct use of the reins.

4) A single-jointed mouthpiece on a leverage-style bit does not make it softer than a bar mouthpiece. Instead, it may be one of the most uncomfortable bits we’ve invented. The combination of the jointed action of the mouthpiece and the leverage action of the shanks exacerbates the nutcracker effect, basically strangling the jaw. A bit like this must be used with a great deal of care.

5) If you are moving from a snaffle to a curb, consider a loose-jawed, short shank, open-ported bit to give the horse plenty of room for his tongue and only a gentle curb action.

7) The steeper the port, the more likely it will be to make contact with the sensitive upper palate. It takes about two inches of port in a normal horse to make contact with the roof of the mouth.

8) To determine the amount of leverage, consider the length and shape of the shank. The amount of angle; whether straight, grazing, 7-shaped, or S-shaped; and the length of each part of the shank and the ratio of the two determines the leverage and quickness. For example, a short purchase and a long shank is a very quick and highly leveraged bit. The greater the ratio, the quicker the bit, and the more leverage it has.

This unique family of bits should only be used by experienced riders and trainers, or under the supervision of a trainer, because in the wrong hands they can be quite severe.

• There’s no curb strap. That means that when the rider pulls on the reins, there’s no corresponding pressure on the chin groove to ask the horse to give at the poll. There is, however, some poll pressure.

• The gag bit applies much more pressure on the lips than on the tongue or the bars. While some gags do have a rein that goes over the poll, this isn’t their first point of action.

• The gag bit, according to Elwyn Hartley Edwards, has a “both ends against the middle” action: The pressure on the mouth is upwards, while the pressure on the poll is downward.

• Gags can be fit with a snaffle rein as well, so the rider can employ the gag when necessary but use mostly the snaffle.

A conventional gag bit has rope or rounded leather pieces (roundings) that attach to the crown pieces of your bridle. The roundings slide through the gag bit rings quickly and allow you to release the gag action in an instant.

The conventional gag bit generally has D or Eggbutt bit rings (in fact, in the U.K. it is called a “gag snaffle”), through which you can also attach a direct rein. The gag rein goes through both sides of the bit ring, attaching to the bridle rings on both cheeks and to the regular reins. The pressure on the reins does not get diffused through the length of the shank—it goes directly to the horse’s poll, one of his most sensitive parts. The gag, when engaged, lifts up against the horse’s lips.

The gag bit is used in the English disciplines almost exclusively for jumping and for polo. It is frequently seen on the cross-country course and in the stadium-jumping arena. Its particular action works very well for rebalancing a horse that may be running flat on his forehand. The rider in this case can take a hold of the gag rein and, using seat and leg simultaneously, rebalance the horse before the jump. The gag bit asks the horse to lift his head and allows the rider to bring a horse that may be curled up with his head between his knees up in front.

The gag bit is illegal in the dressage arena and is never seen in the hunter ring. It is assumed that there is no reason for a hunter to need a gag, since he’s supposed to have a quiet, rated, and gentle way of going. Sometimes a gag bit may be used temporarily as a training device to correct a horse that’s too low in the poll and/or too strong.

The conventional gag is designed to have both a snaffle and a gag rein. It is sometimes called a gag snaffle.

Gags are popular with polo players and jumper riders. It allows them to bring their horses’ heads up quickly.

There are several varieties of gags, with all varieties of mouthpieces. There are single-jointed, double-jointed, twisted wire, mullen mouth, French link, cherry roller, and everything in between.

The wonder gag slides up in the horse’s mouth and applies pressure to the lips when the reins are engaged. It often has a very thin mouthpiece, and wide rings that allow the snaffle rein to slide. The lower shanks can be used when the rider needs both more leverage and more gag action. It is often seen in the Western arena as well.

The thin mouthpiece and multiple ways to attach the reins make this wonder gag a particularly versatile bit for the strong, forward-going horse. It is for experienced riders only.

There is very little difference between an “elevator” and a “gag” bit. A traditional gag has cheek rings and roundings, while an elevator may have shanks that look more like a curb or other leverage bit. Both are designed to lift in the horse’s mouth before the leverage action engages.

With the traditional gag, the mouthpiece itself slides on the rein rings, giving the horse an “upward” signal, hence the term “elevator.”

Both gag and elevator bits give the horse some “warning” before their full effect is engaged. The first action the horse feels is the bit sliding up the rings as the rider takes more contact. The bit lifts in the mouth. The second action is the engagement of the leverage on the poll. Because there is no curb strap on the elevator or gag bits, the cheek pieces of the bridle are pulled forward and down when the rein is engaged.

Because the action of the bit is upward, the lips are the primary point of engagement for the linked variety of mouthpieces. The bit might actually draw up toward the back of the horse’s throat and against his molars should the rider need serious pull.

The so-called American gag’s shanks add a leverage component, although there is no curb strap preventing the bit from rising up against the lips when the rider pulls on the reins.

The Dutch gag is also called a Pessoa, a European, a Continental, a four-ring, or a bubble bit. What differentiates it from a traditional gag is the multiple leverage options available to riders. This style of bit has recently come into favor among jumper riders. The bits have two, three, or four rings of differing widths. This allows the rider to choose the ring he needs for that day’s ride. The smaller rings give the horse less warning, while the bigger ring at the bit allows the rein to slide up before engaging the mouth pressure and leverage on the poll. The lowest ring is the smallest, the furthest from the mouthpiece, and the most severe. The lack of curb strap or chain means the bit moves up in the mouth and applies lip pressure, while also adding additional poll pressure intensity. Because of the amount of play in the lowest ring, and the mouthpiece’s flexibility, this bit can both bring the head up and provide the action of a relatively strong leverage bit.

In chapter 3, we discussed the sensitivity of the horse’s nose and chin grooves. The hackamore plays directly on these sensitivities. There are several kinds of hackamore nosebands, and like bits, they range from mild to severe. The shanks can also be different shapes—straight, S-curved, angled back, or 7-shaped. As with the leverage shanks, the more angled the shank, the milder the impact.

Rubber covered chain nose: The rubber softens the impact of the chain, but the flexibility and thinness of the noseband mean it can be quite strong.

Rope or braided leather nosebands: These tend to be thin and flexible, and as such, provide a fair amount of “rate”—ability to bring the horse to the rhythm in which you’d like him to travel.

Flat leather noseband: This hackamore is one of the most popular styles for both English and Western. It’s good for horses that carry themselves and are well tuned to the rider, because their action is quite mild.

The third category of bitless bridle puts pressure on the horse’s head. The cross-under bitless bridle, invented by Robert Cook, DVM, works on the principle of pressure and release. The cross-under’s most distinguishing feature is the unique configuration of the throatlatch. Rather than a single strap, the cross-under has two throatlatches, which cross below the horse’s jaw and attach to the reins. When the rider takes contact, the horse feels it on the opposite cheek and poll. Cook claims the real difference is that the horse feels a “push” or a “nudge” rather than the pull of the traditional bridle and rein combination. The nudge effect is secondary to the aids of good riding—seat, leg, and weight. The bridle is designed to disperse the pressure from the rider’s aids to a variety of areas rather than localizing it to the most sensitive areas of the horse’s mouth.

One potential drawback for the cross-under is that riders with unsteady contact tend to cause the horse’s head to wag. Because the release happens when the leather reins slide through the rings, which subsequently loosens the throatlatches, it can also take a split second longer to release the contact than in a snaffle bit. The bridle also needs to be well oiled to facilitate the release.

Cook’s research showed how the horses in a riding school program reacted to the cross-under bitless bridle. When four different horses were ridden through a basic training level dressage test twice, once in a regular snaffle bit and once in a bitless bridle of Cook’s design, the average score increased significantly and the horses were softer and less fussy.

The results aren’t surprising. It is the nature of school horses’ jobs that their mouths are often yanked on, pulled on, and balanced on during their lessons, and hence they are as a general rule defensive, no matter what’s in their mouths. Using the cross-under bridle steadied the contact and gave the school horses significant relief.

Another bitless design is the LG Bridle. Invented by Monica Lehmenkühler, of Cologne, Germany, the bridle works differently from the Cook bridle in a number of ways. The LG consists of two wheels, a soft leather noseband, and a curb chain, which is attached to the noseband with leather loops. It can be strapped to any regular bridle. The adjustment of the reins, bridle cheek pieces, and curb chain determine whether there is more or less leverage. With tension on the reins, the wheel turns, shortening the noseband, curb chain, and finally the crownpiece of the bridle. This product works like a mechanical hackamore, employing a very light amount of leverage, or it can put more direct pressure on the nose, depending on the adjustment.

While Western riders have been using rope hackamores and other bitless options forever, the number of new inventions geared toward the English riding market might signal that bitless bridles are no longer a “fad” but have actually become relatively accepted by the mainstream horse community. While you may see a bitless bridle in the hunt field, on the trail, or even in the arena, they are illegal in recognized dressage competitions and not used in the hunter show ring.

Dr. Robert Cook’s bridle’s throatlatch crosses under the chin. Horses feel the rein pressure as a push from the opposite side, rather than a direct pull.

The LG Bridle, invented in Germany, uses a wheel at each cheek. The reins can be adjusted in different places along the wheels for direct or leverage pressure on the nose and poll.

The bitless options seem particularly useful for riding schools, as Cook notes. Teaching inexperienced riders that bits are not brakes, and that it’s possible to both steer and stop without pulling on the horse’s mouth, would do much to further equestrian education.

Any horse in any discipline can be ridden in a bitless bridle provided he’s well trained.